The ultimate niacinamide guide: what not to mix with niacinamide

The ultimate niacinamide guide: what not to mix with niacinamide

 

Skincare ingredients can be tricky to navigate. There are so many actives out there, each with a range of purported benefits, but some outshine the rest when it comes to results. Niacinamide is one of those gold-standard ingredients; perhaps not as lauded as retinol, or as ubiquitous as hyaluronic acid, but it’s every bit as deserving of its derm-beloved status.

 

As popular as it is versatile, niacinamide boasts a whole host of benefits from calming redness to improving skin texture, however knowing how to use it correctly is crucial to maximising its effectiveness. But you don’t need a chemistry degree to know which ingredients to combine – or avoid – when using it. Keep reading for our guide to safely applying and layering niacinamide to ensure you get the best possible results from your routine.

 

What is niacinamide, and why is it a skincare essential?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that supports healthy, glowing skin when applied topically. It is one of several active ingredients of vitamin B, and one of three known derivatives of vitamin B3. When used in skincare formulations, niacinamide offers a range of benefits including increasing hydration and minimising moisture loss; soothing and calming redness; enhancing smoothness and minimising visible pores; supporting barrier function and brightening the appearance of dull skin.

 

What not to mix with niacinamide

One of the benefits of niacinamide is that it works well with the vast majority of active ingredients. Although it plays well with many ingredients, certain combinations could cause irritation, particularly if you have sensitive skin. Knowing what not to mix with niacinamide helps to ensure you get the best results from your skincare regimen.

 

Can you use niacinamide with retinol?

The short answer is yes, niacinamide and retinol or retinoids work very well together. Many experts recommend combining the two, as niacinamide can help to dial down any irritation caused by retinoids. They essentially work in complementary ways, but this does depend on your skin type and skin goals.

 

If you’re looking to target signs of ageing, this is the perfect combo. Retinoids work to minimise the look of fine lines and wrinkles, while niacinamide targets other signs of ageing like visible pores, dullness and dark spots. It also helps to reinforce retinol’s skin-smoothing properties, while niacinamide’s soothing, barrier-strengthening benefits help to counteract any redness or irritation caused by retinisation.

 

It’s also an effective pairing for common skin concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation and sun damage. When used in tandem, retinoids work to resurface and clarify the skin, while niacinamide can help to smooth skin texture, reduce visible pores, even out skin tone and reduce excess sebum production. Essentially, the ingredients work in different but complementary ways to target an array of common skin concerns and conditions.

 

If you have particularly sensitive skin, or are new to retinol, you may wish to stagger application or alternate niacinamide and retinol on different days. If you are using the two ingredients together and noticing any redness, flakiness or discomfort, we recommend applying the ingredients less frequently – taking a skin cycling approach by using actives every other day, with ‘rest days’ in between.

 

Can you use niacinamide with vitamin C?

Yes, niacinamide and vitamin C can work well together, however you should be careful about how you combine the two safely to ensure maximum effectiveness. Typically, experts recommend applying vitamin C in the morning, then niacinamide in the evening, rather than layering one after the other. If you would prefer to apply one after the other, apply vitamin C first, wait 15 minutes for it to absorb, then apply niacinamide before your chosen moisturiser. Using a single formula with both actives, such as Even Better Clinical™ Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter, is a great way to ensure the formulas remain stable and effective – plus it’s one less step to worry about.

 

If you’re wondering “can you use niacinamide with vitamin C?” It's worth considering your own specific skin concerns. If you are looking to target hyperpigmentation or blemishes, this is a real power pairing as vitamin C helps to brighten and even out the complexion, while niacinamide gets to work strengthening the skin barrier, smoothing skin tone and texture, calming irritation and minimising pores. Both ingredients have antioxidant properties, meaning they work well together to protect the skin and defend against environmental stressors.

 

Other ingredients to avoid mixing with niacinamide

If you’re wondering what not to mix with niacinamide, there are a few actives to approach with caution – specifically AHAs and BHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid and glycolic acid. Pairing niacinamide with exfoliating acids can occasionally lead to skin irritation, inflammation and reactions, particularly in those with sensitive skin. However, if you have acne-prone skin, niacinamide and salicylic acid can be a really effective combination, helping to exfoliate, unclog pores and smooth and soothe the skin. If you’d like to combine ingredients like niacinamide and salicylic acid, experts recommend using them on different days to avoid irritation and ensure optimum efficacy. As with other actives, you can also find a formula containing both niacinamide and salicylic acid, which you can use as directed.

 

What can you mix with niacinamide: the perfect pairings

Though you should be careful with some combos, overall niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that pairs well with lots of actives. Here are a few of our favourite niacinamide power pairings for remarkable results.

 

 

Best pairing ingredients for niacinamide

 

For dry, dehydrated or combination skin: niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is one of those ingredients that goes with everything, and works for every skin type. Combining niacinamide with this powerful humectant helps to deeply hydrate, improving texture and even plumping up fine lines and wrinkles in the process. They help keep the skin’s protective barrier strong and balanced, protecting against daily aggressors that can exacerbate dryness and dehydration.

 

For acne and blemish-prone skin: niacinamide and salicylic acid. If you suffer from breakouts and blemishes, this can be a great combination. Exfoliating salicylic acid helps to unclog pores, sweep away dead skin cells and balance out excess oil buildup; while niacinamide supports by soothing irritation, regulating oil production, minimising pores and strengthening the skin barrier.

 

For oily, acne-prone skin: niacinamide and zinc. Another derm-approved combo for oily, blemish-prone skin. Zinc and niacinamide work together to quell inflammation, regulate oil/sebum production and clarify the complexion.

 

For redness, rosacea and sensitive skin: niacinamide and azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a real hero ingredient for redness and rosacea, as it boasts both anti-inflammatory and exfoliating properties. Niacinamide helps to support these calming benefits, making it a great combo for sensitive skin. This duo also works well to target signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and dullness.

 

Commonly asked questions: FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

For more advice on what not to mix with niacinamide, ask one of our experts via live chat, or book in for a 1:1 Skin School consultation for complimentary advice, tips and recommendations.

Words by Shona Wallace, December 2024.